Re: [PLUG] OT: SMD capacitor

[Eric Hidle <junkmail@ie-ap.org>]

An electrolytic would be fine, but an SMD would be preferred to a 
radial....

Polystyrene caps can run $5-$10.... low ESR caps can be a tad much...

It takes a LOT to break a component off of a board. It doesn't happen 
w/o a lot of force..
E

gyoza@comcast.net wrote:
> Thanks.  That really narrows it down.  I see that Mouser has some for 
> about $2.22 each.  (Expensive for caps, isn't it?)
>
> So, I should really avoid a electrolytic cap?  I have a 16V, 100uF and 
> 35V, 47uF available.  Or should I just return this card to the ebay 
> seller?
>
> I'm still wondering how a component could be knocked off the board at 
> both ends *and* one lead become completed broken off the component.  
> Could a loose heatsink/fan moving about during shipping do that?
>
>
> Eric Hidle wrote:
> > Judging from the location, it doesn't look like a DC-DC output cap, 
> > but rather a bulk supply cap for the graphics processor. The DC-DC 
> > converters are nestled in that jungle of tin cans at the up-end of 
> > the board. That said, it could very well be a tantalum... 16VDC is a 
> > pretty high voltage for a solid polymer cap in that large a 
> > capacitance...
> >
> > Anyway, check out AVX TPS series caps for a replacement... they're 
> > probably available at digikey in onesies... perhaps a TPSD476M016
> > E
> >
> >
> >
> > gyoza@comcast.net wrote:
> > > Here are pictures of the capacitor.  
> > > http://reddragoncanoeclub.org/paul/9600/
> > >
> > > The card is just to show the location and relative size of the cap.  
> > > The only difference is that my cap is black and my board is green.  
> > > heh.
> > >
> > > I was assuming the cap is tantalum.
> > >
> > >
> > > Eric Hidle wrote:
> > > > What package is the bad capacitor in and what chemistry was it? 
> > > > Chances are it was a low-ESR polystyrene or aluminum-polymer cap, 
> > > > in which case you do not want to replace it with just any 
> > > > off-the-shelf tantalum or electrolytic capacitor. The DC-DC 
> > > > converters on video cards are ultra-clean and depend upon a very 
> > > > low amount of resistance in the output caps to minimize ripple.
> > > >
> > > > Was this thing a round tin can?
> > > > E
> > > >
> > > > gyoza@comcast.net wrote:
> > > > > Nevermind.  heh.  I will try the radial capacitor.  (I found 
> > > > > #electronics on Freenode.net)
> > > > >
> > > > > gyoza@comcast.net wrote:
> > > > > > I have a Radeon 9600 Pro video card with a bad surface mount 
> > > > > > capacitor (C2).  I'm not sure of the value of it.  It's labeled 
> > > > > > "47" and "16V" which I read as 47uF, 16V.  Does that sound 
> > > > > > correct?  It is a black SMD capacitor with a white end to 
> > > > > > indicate polarity.  The size is roughly 7mm x 3.5mm x 2mm.  I 
> > > > > > need to identify it enough to replace it.  Would it be too wacky 
> > > > > > to use a huge radial capacitor to replace it?
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